If you are a Millennial or Gen Z looking for a new experience in wine, you may be surprised to hear one of the most interesting and versatile types of wine is Sherry. In North America, sherry is usually misunderstood; the myth is that sherry is sickly sweet and is only drunk by your grandmother and characters in an English period drama. In reality, Sherry wine ranges in style from very sweet to very dry, with a wide range of flavour profiles that depend upon the grape, the process and the conditions under which the wine is made. Today, young producers, importers and mixologists are working hard to overcome the myths around sherry and show the range of styles of Sherry that make it versatile; in Spain, they drink it on its own, mixed in cocktails or paired with a wide variety of food. Drinking sherry is experiencing some of the oldest authentic wines that are still made today. Let me explain.

When the Romans occupied the Iberian Peninsula, modern-day Spain and Portugal circa 218BCE to 19BCE, they introduced grape growing and wine production. In southern Spain, in the region called Andalusia, with hot, dry growing conditions, a light, refreshing white wine was produced. As the world shrank with sailing and shipping, attempts to market this wine into new regions often failed. This light wine is often spoiled before reaching its destination, where shipping times were measured in years or months compared to the transport times today, which are weeks or days,

Eventually, the Romans and others were replaced by the Moors, who introduced distillation to the area in the 8th century. The wine producers discovered that adding a small amount of this neutral distilled grape spirit overcame the spoilage issue during shipping. This wine was named Sherry after the town where it was first produced, Jerez. Don’t get the connection? Me neither until I learned Sherish is the Moorish translation of the name Jerez (pronounced heh-rez).

Like many other countries and wine regions, the production of sherry wine is very regulated regarding grapes used, where they are grown, and where the wine itself can be aged. The Denomination of Origin (D.O.) for the zone of production for “Jerez-Xérès-Sherry” and “Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda” is located in the most southwestern part of the Iberian Peninsula. This regulates the vineyards allowed to produce the grapes used in sherry making and the area where the sherry can be stored and aged. The maturing zone is known as the Sherry Triangle and consists of 3 towns: Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. All of the maturing Bodegas are located in these towns. The traditional solera system used, the unique conditions in these maturing zones and the soils found in the vineyards give Sherry a distinct and special character that makes it not just a style of wine but a distinct category.

The D.O. is administered by a group of 23 members from all parts of the industry. This group, called the Consejo Regulador, includes 10 elected members from the production, or growing sector and 10 elected members from the Bodegas. This group applies the “Regulations” to vineyard location and suitability, harvesting, maturing, cultural protection and promotion of sherry. All parts of the industry or included to keep the integrity and unique features of the climate and soil in the region, the grapes, the maturation styles and the history of the wine. There may be other sherry-styled wines in the world, like Apera in Australia and Canada, but there is only one true Jerez-Xérès-Sherry.

The map above indicates the area known as the Sherry Triangle. Each of the three towns that make up the triangle is known for adding different characteristics to the wines aged there. For example, the towns closer to the ocean will have different heat and humidity levels than those of Jerez, which is further from the coast.

The soil in the vineyard areas is also part of what makes the D.O. unique. Three types of soil dominate the growing area. Albariza soil is a light soil comprised of 30 to 80 per cent chalk, with the rest being limestone, clay, and sand. Palomino grapes, which comprise the largest portion of sherry styles, grow best in this soil.

The soil’s high chalk content is very advantageous for plant growth. The soil’s structure readily accepts water during winter rains and can retain much of that moisture when sunny days come. The soil surface bakes hard in the sun, sealing in moisture and reducing evaporation. Fun fact: the white colour of the soil reflects light on the plant and helps to increase photosynthesis.

A second soil type is higher in clay and organic matter, with only about 10 per cent clay. Barros is a rich brown colour, and although it may produce more grapes in a season, the grapes are of a lesser quality. The last soil type, known as Arenas, also has a lower 10 to 20 per cent clay content and a high sand content. This reddish-coloured soil is not good for Palomino grapes, but it is well suited for Moscatel grapes, which are used in some of the naturally sweet Sherry styles.

This is a side-by-side comparison of the soil types: the red-brown, sandy Arenas, the white, chalky Albariza, and the dark brown, organic-rich Barros.

Although up to 250 different grapes were originally grown in the area, only three are typically grown today for sherry production: Palomino, Moscotal and Pedro Ximénez.

Palomino, or Palomino Fino as it is also known, is a thin-skinned, juicy white grape with low acidity and little character if made into a simple white wine. However, the low acidity, especially low malic acid, allows for easy oxidation, which is an important plus in the sherry-making process, which we will explore a little later. The Palomino grape is used in all types of sherry especially dry sherry styles. The D.O. for “Jerez-Xérès-Sherry” does not cover what grapes need to be used in each style, and although Palomino is usually used in dry styles, there is some experimentation going on.

Moscotal is a thicker-skinned white grape originally from Africa and is particularly suited to the sandy Arenas soil. The grapes are over-ripened on the vine or sun-dried to concentrate the sugars and are used in the naturally sweet styles of sherry known locally as Vinos Dulces Naturales.

Pedro Ximénez (PX) is grown for its high sugar content and higher acidity, which lends well to sweeter sherry styles. Like Moscotal, the grapes are picked very ripe or more frequently dried on straw mats in the sun in a process called soleo. Because of the very high sugar content of PX grapes, they need a little help to start fermenting, and when they reach 5% ABV, a distilled grape spirit is added, ending fermentation and bringing it to 15% ABV. The wine is then sent to a Bodega in the Triangle Zone to begin maturation.

Whether the grapes have been dried or pressed fresh the juice is then allowed to ferment into the base wine used to create sherry. Fresh-pressed Palimono grapes are fully fermented to consume almost all of the sugars present to create the base of all of the dry style of sherries, while the Moscatel, PX and over-ripe Paliminos are partially fermented to a sweet base wine for the naturally sweet styles. There is another sweet style of sherry that is produced by adding sweet grape must or a raisin syrup to the wine or by mixing dry and naturally sweet styles to create what is known as Cream Sherry.

Sherry typically has no age statement but is usually 5 to 7 years old; it does, however, need to be at least 2 years old to be sold as sherry. We will talk a little later about age statements and how that is changing. The style and taste of the Sherry are unique to each producer, and those styles are maintained year to year using a blending method called criaderas y solera, a method of interconnecting rows of barrels or butts as they are also known with sherry from different vintages. As the oldest sherry is removed for bottling from the bottom row, called the solera, it is replaced with Sherry from the previous year’s barrels in sequence, each younger barrel replacing the amount removed from the older barrel below, finally, the barrel at the top to be replaced with wine from the current year. This blending maintains the style of the Sherry.

The essential feature of this completely unique process, known as criaderas y solera, is that the win which is to be bottled is taken from the butts (barrels) situated at floor level, the solera, which contain the oldest wines. The amount taken out is substituted by an equivalent amount of younger wine from the row above, the first criadera , and this in turn is substituted by the same amount from the row above that, which contains an even younger wine, and so on, the result being exceptional wines which maintain the same quality, year after year.

Exerpt from sherry.wine

Fun Fact: The solera style of blending is being used in other parts of Europe to age port in Portugal or Marsala in Sicily, but did you know some distillers are also using it to age whiskey and bourbon?

So we have the soil, the climate, the grapes and a method of maturing the wine, but what really happens while the wine is maturing and helps to make this wine so unique?

Between the fermentation stage and addition to the solera, steps are taken that will determine how the wine will be treated going forward. The first step for any of the wines is fortification, or the addition of a neutral grape spirit to bring it a particular ABV. That ABV is different depending on whether it is a naturally sweet wine or a dry wine style and, as far as dry wine goes, what characteristics the particular wine will feature.

You may hear of flor when buying Sherry. Flor is a natural yeast cap that forms on sherry while barrel ageing and acts as a barrier to keep oxygen away from the Sherry, keeping the fresh, crispness of the wine intact. Before dry style wines are fortified they are classified and fortified according to a set of parameters. Basically speaking, the finer or more delicate wines will be fortified to about 15% ABV, keeping the veil of flor intact and preventing oxidation while ageing, referred to as biological ageing. The coarser wines will be fortified to over 18% ABV, killing off the yeast cap and allowing the sherry to age by oxidation, creating rich, round nutty flavours and deepening the colour of the wine to create Oloroso. Fino and Manzanilla Sherries are kept under flor for the duration of their ageing in the solera, the difference between the two styles is the locations where they are aged. Manzanilla can only be aged in a bodega in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, located near the Atlantic coast. The wines have the same fresh, bone-dry characteristics as Fino sherry aged further inland but with a more floral finish.

Amontillado and Palo Cortado sherries are produced by the marriage of biological and oxidative ageing. After a period of ageing under the yeast cap, the veil of flor protecting Fino or Manzanilla wines can die off naturally by the flor using up the nutrients it needs or by further fortification by the winemaker. The wine then continues to age oxidatively to allow for a richer texture and more nutty or dried fruit notes to develop. The colour and flavour profiles of Amontillado can vary depending on the amount of time under flor before oxidative ageing begins. Although similar to Amontillado in production, Palo Cortado is a rare wine as it is selected early on, only from the finest young wines and as described by sherry.wine as, “A wine of great complexity which combines the delicate bouquet of an Amontillado with the body and palate of an Oloroso.”

Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez (PX) and Palomino grapes are used to produce Vinos Dulces Naturales, naturally sweet sherry. These wines are also aged in a solera after drying and vinification but are fortified to 18% to kill any flor that may be present and are aged for long periods by oxidation. These wines are rich with smooth texture and deep rich mahogany and ebony hues. Moscatel grapes have a more floral and citrus sweetness on the nose due to the growing conditions and characteristics of the grape compared to the richer and sweeter dried fig, raisin and candied fruit of PX grapes. PX sherry is rich and luxurious in the mouth but with some lingering acidity on the finish. Sounds like the perfect sweet to savour after a good meal with great people.

Rounding out the sherry styles are sweet sherries, also known as Cream sherry. These thick, sweetened sherries were very popular in Britain after being introduced by Harvey’s Bristol Cream around 1860. Cream sherries have evolved to become three separate flavour profiles, and although they have fallen a bit out of favour for drier styles, they still have a place.

Let’s take a look at the many styles of Sherry, from dry to sweet.

Note: One of the great sources I have referred to for this foray into Sherry is Sherry.wine. These images of sherry by type are from the site. Take a look there for a details history of sherry and many other descriptions and insights.

Fino

Fino Sherry is a dry, pale wine with a crisp, fresh taste. It undergoes a unique ageing process under a layer of flor yeast, which imparts a distinctive flavour. Pair Fino Sherry with tapas such as olives, almonds, and Manchego cheese or seafood dishes like grilled shrimp or oysters.

Manzanilla

Like Fino, Manzanilla is a very dry Sherry with a slightly salty and briny character. Enjoy Manzanilla with seafood, particularly ceviche, anchovies, or fried fish.

Amontillado

Amontillado starts ageing under flor but is later exposed to oxidation, resulting in a darker colour and a richer, nuttier flavour profile compared to Fino or Manzanilla. Pair Amontillado with dishes like roasted chicken, grilled mushrooms, or aged cheeses such as Gouda or Comté.

Palo Cortado

Where Amontillado can begin oxidation by chance, Palo Cortado is chosen to be aged both under flor and oxidatively. Vintners classify the best young wines early to add to the old wines and keep their distinct taste. Pair Palo Cortado with pates, curries or spicy Asian dishes.

Oloroso

Oloroso Sherry is oxidatively aged, giving it a dark colour and a rich, nutty, and robust flavour. It is typically dry, but there are also sweet Oloroso variations. Oloroso complements hearty dishes like grilled meats, game, and strong-flavoured cheeses. It’s also excellent with dishes featuring caramelized onions or mushroom risotto.

Pedro Ximénez (PX)

Pedro Ximénez is a sweet Sherry made from sun-dried grapes. This results in a lusciously sweet and syrupy wine with flavours of raisins, figs, and molasses. PX is an excellent match with desserts, especially chocolate-based ones, as well as blue cheeses or foie gras.

Moscatel

It is also made with sundried grapes but has a slightly drier, more floral palate. Pair it with creamy fruit tarts or creme brule.

Cream

Cream Sherry, or Medium Sherry, blends dry and sweet Sherries. It offers a balanced sweetness with a velvety texture. Cream Sherry pairs well with creamy desserts, nut-based sweets, or spiced dishes like Indian or Moroccan cuisine

If you are trying Sherry for the first time, I would recommend starting with either an Amontillado or Oloroso. Try the Amontillado if you prefer dry or the Oloroso if you prefer sweet. You can move drier or sweeter depending on your palate preference. If you are planning an event and want to provide an alternative or a unique taste to a dinner party, add Sherry for that new, exciting experience.

This might be a good time to revisit the idea of age statements and products aged in a solera. Obviously, because after the point where young wine is added to the top of the solera pyramid, it mixes with wine that may be present one year or one hundred years, depending on the age of the solera. So, how do we add an accurate age statement that is in any way accurate? In the early 2000s, the D.O. “Jerez-Xérès-Sherry” created criteria to test wines presented to them, awarding VOR and VORS designations wines deemed to be 20-year-old and 30-year-old wines, respectively. The designations only apply to a particular bottling and not to a particular bodega or solera. There are criticisms of the system as expensive for the producers, especially smaller producers, as it doesn’t acknowledge anything older than 30 years, even though some soleras have been in production for much longer or the testing is not wholly accurate. Whatever the case, they are out there to explore but don’t ignore bottles without an age statement, as there are lots of great taste candidates out there, and as we have learned, you never know what hidden gem might be in a bottle of sherry. Check out the website Sherry Notes for some more detailed information on this and other things, Sherry.

With the rise of a global culinary culture, craft cocktails, and a desire for unique, authentic experiences, Sherry is seeing a rapid rise in understanding and use in North America. With the ability to work with a wide range of food options, with craft wine sellers and mixologists working to introduce and popularize it, Sherry is seeing a huge jump in use in restaurants and bars. Check out the Flor de Jerez cocktail by Death & Co or a Sherry Daiquiri by Matt Piacentini.

The sherries most known to North Americans were cheap, sweetened sherries in the 60s and 70s in the marketplace, likely creating the misconception and fear of sherry, making it seem like a single, sickly sweet concoction instead of the veritable rainbow of flavour profiles it is. Even today, it is difficult to source a variety of sherry styles here, and it is a shame as we are missing out on a wonderful array of flavours to pair with a variety of food or to otherwise enjoy.

Modern technology has improved the quality of vineyard management and winery techniques. Producers are experimenting with new techniques while strict regulations are in place to ensure the quality and authenticity of the Sherry produced today. The quality has never been higher while maintaining traditional methods. Adding a neutral spirit also reduces or negates the use of preserving additives found in other modern still wines.

If you have been following our recent A Taste of Spain blogs, here is an opportunity to truly experience Spain by pairing a lovely Sherry with one of the many tasty Spanish dishes. So go out, explore the offerings where you live and enjoy the experience. Salud!